Paris has one of the
best flea
markets in the world with an astonishing array of hundreds of
specialized vendors selling antique furniture, art, jewelry, etc. It’s
a fantastic place but entirely overwhelming. Fortunately, my sister
Rena is an expert on collecting fine art and was recently in Paris.
She gave me permission to reprint her advice:
The best markets are Serpette and Paul Bert. Serpette is inside of
Paul Bert which is all exterior. Look for the amazing booth of
“designer jewelry” which you cannot miss - she has the best looking
booth inside and it is filled with Chanel and coco chanel stuff - it’s
just a very unusual and beautiful thing to see - not that you’d buy
anything.
Dauphine is also great - we found a dealer in orientalism on the far
wall inside that was terrific - we bought some prints. There is also
a dealer in inexpensive prints of all subjects - he’s in the middle
and has bins outside his stall - i recommend him. We bought three
prints from him of mythological subjects.
In Vernaison there is a dealer of rugs that I loved - there are very
few that have affordable rugs. We found his prices to be good - he is
outside just at the entrance of Vernaison.
Eat at the restaurant at the welcome sign to Paul Bert - it’s great
and terrific prices. We especially liked the hot chocolate and french
onion soup. everything was terrific. I think it’s called Cafe Paul
Bert. If you find yourself near Dauphine needing a bite, go to the
cafe there - I think called Cafe Dauphine - not inside with the stalls
but just outside it - we had fabulous chicken.
So, what is my advice for what to buy and how? I think the flea
market is best for those of us from far away for prints and small
objects. For instance, we found a small 19th century bronze
rectangular medal of Mercury for $150 from a small dealer in
Vernaisson who simply had an odd assortment of small objects. Under
$500 you cannot go wrong as long as you buy what you like. I think
the prints are undervalued - in the US most of that stuff is hard to
find and much more money. I recommend finding a set of prints you
like of some subject that appeals to you and framing them alike for
hanging - especially if they remind you of Paris. We also found stock
certificates to be undervalued - in Dauphine upstairs there is a booth
that is totally a mess, but he has large books filled with stock
certificates from all sorts of things - expeditions into the Congo,
World’s Fairs (that’s what we liked), mining, etc. They are $3-20 and
really fun pieces of history and the prints are also usually quite
beautiful. But, you have to patiently flip through 20 books of dusty
pages to find them.
We find the hunt as fun as owning the stuff. It’s a memory of your
time in Paris and the story of what a great deal you got is really
fun.
If you end up interested in rugs, I think my advice is that for under
$2,000 you can’t really go wrong if it looks like it is in good
condition. We like the more nomadic designs which tend to be bolder
and more geometric, but these decisions are totally based on taste.
If you spend more than about $2,000 on a rug you are getting into more
serious territory and may want to know better what you are buying
since there are many fakes out there and overpricing of them.
I suggest that you go in the morning, walk through Paul Bert and
Serpette, take a break for lunch and walk through Dauphine and
Vernaisson. Take a break for hot chocolate and decide what you may
want to buy. We wandered for 2 partial days and bought things on the
third morning.
If you lived there, it seems to be a GREAT place for furniture, but we
did not spend too much time on that since we could not take it home.