After making a fuss for heritage turkeys, I have to confess my Midget White from Townline Farm was good but not great.

The most distinctive thing about our turkey compared to a freakish grocery store turkey was that the dark meat was dense and really, really dark. Much more like a game bird. The drumsticks tasted great but were very chewy. That may be our cooking fault.. The breast meat came out juicy and very flavourful, much better than the usual supermarket mediocrity. There was also a surprising number of tendons in the meat, not to mention a lot of fat in the skin. Good gravy! I'll probably try a heritage turkey again, but it needs some practice. See also Slate on various turkeys.

Anyway, Thanksgiving dinner is more about side dishes and wine than turkey. The corn pudding with chanterelles and cranberry jalapeño relish were great, and the 1978 Santenay was elegant if a bit light to stand up to dinner.

  2003-11-28 21:08 Z