The Louvre is one of the world’s great museums. It is enormous
and full of riches and totally worth several repeated visits. I
particularly like the sculpture, but I discover something new every
time. The Louvre is also a poorly designed tourist experience. Some
notes below on making it better.
My discovery this last visit was the Marie de
Medici cycle. Phenomenal series of 24 enormous Rubens paintings of
the life of Marie de Medici, commissioned by Marie herself in 1622 for
the Palais du Luxembourg. It’s painting on a scale that can only
exist in a place like the Louvre. The story they tell is fascinating, you
could spend a whole day looking at these paintings with Wikipedia’s
competent explanation. Long story short she married the King of France
and took over as regent when he died. When her son wrested power from her
she was exiled. Part of her securing her legacy was having Rubens make
these elegiac paintings telling her side of the story. They’re
particularly unusual in that it’s a woman being lionized. They
are fascinating. And being Rubens, they are amazingly well executed.
My other discovery at the Louvre was how difficult
it is to get inside the door because of the security theater. This article
describes your options. The tacky Carousel de Louvre mall seems best. While it only
has a single security line, it has fewer visitors. The fancy main entrance
is an hour+ disaster, the Porte des Lions is often unstaffed, and the Rue
Richelieu entrance requires a hard-to-buy advance ticket. Past security,
the fastest way to get a ticket is from an automated machine. Don’t
follow the sheep; look for the machines without a line.
Once inside the Louvre not everything is available; rooms
are regularly closed. Why? Hard to say, but much of it appears to
be staffing. Also be sure to check the Louvre is open at all; sometimes
some part of the staff goes on strike and the whole museum is closed.
One should approach the Louvre with a plan but I never
manage. “Avoid the crowds” is a good heuristic; the Mona
Lisa is lovely but the experience of shoving in to see it is not. This
time I amused myself taking bad snapshots of painting details: one and two. Next
time I should finally get to their ancient Egypt collection.
One last thing: a plan for lunch. You need a break. Unfortunately
there is no longer a good proper restaurant in the museum, just some
mediocre cafeteria options. We did well heading outside to the
Brasserie du Louvre,
surprisingly well really. Best salade niçoise I’ve had in
awhile.