My ninth story hotel room is bathed in the music of Delhi traffic. The windows are swarmed by birds on the gyre.
Turns out Indian food is even better in India, y'all.
First tourist day in New Delhi: bicycle rickshaw, Grand Mosque, Qutb Minar (no relation). All terrific, nice having a guide organizing.
Also the Grand Mosque rivals the Plaza Mayor for perfectly proportioned enormous public spaces. A calm refuge above Old Delhi.
The ~800 year old inscriptions at the Qutb Minar are amazing. Check out the Kufic on the left. (Bonus tourist photo)
Delhi tourist day: Swami Naryan Temple, Humayan's tomb.
Slowly appreciating how sophisticated and engaged India is, at least central Delhi.
In India, "teacoffee?" is a single word, despite being a choice between two beverages.
Delhi has a lot of street dogs. They look hungry, sad, timid. They act shy like they get kicked a lot.
Great day learning to cook Chettinad Indian food at an expert's lovely home.
@nelson Great having Ken and you over today!! Lovely afternoon.
Interesting visit to the Museum of Modern Art in Delhi. Love this sculpture.
Last night in Delhi. Crazy sculpture in our hotel in Gurgaon, near Cyber City.
Fascinating art by Amrita Sher-Gil, an Indian/Hungarian feminist artist of the 1930s. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amrita_Sher-Gil
Current status: Googling "martini safe india diarrhea".
Ken with hotel elephant.
Boarding the Maharajah's Express, a 7 day cruise on rails. Our personal butler is named Sita. Next stop, Taj Mahal.
No really, I'm taking some Raj-remnant tourist train to the Taj Mahal. India, y'all.
I wasn't kidding; the Taj Mahal is a real thing and it's really here. Astounding architecture as sculpture.
The brand name of this train's WiFi link is like a poem.
Tata Docomo Photon Whiz
90' tall sundial accurate to 2 seconds. Flock of birds. A nearby mosque is calling the faithful to prayer.
Photos from the Jaipur observatory Jantar Mantar
Photos from Jaipur; beautiful orderly Indian town.
Camels sound like banthas.
Sand dunes dinner as full moon rises. Rajasthani music, dancers. Lots of fire.
Visit to Jodhpur's central Clock Tower Market. We liked the food and spice stalls.
Jodhpur has beautiful palace forts high above the Blue City.
Maharajah and me on a throne in Udaipur.
Udaipur iconography. All of the art in Rajasthan is so rich and detailed and not at all tacky in context.
Our valet for our Maharajah train cabin decorated our bed for us tonight.
Visit to a small village in Gujarat. Weird tourist event, but folks were very welcoming.
@nelson looks a little like my family's village. :)
An ecstatic Sufi dance and drumming performance by Indians of African ancestry. Overhead giant fruitbats are flying.
More Sufi Indian African dancers. I promise this photo was taken with respect (for the dancers, if not us)
Mumbai is a little overwhelming.
Very nice dinner at Khyber in Mumbai. Indian food really is better in India. Cheers, @_achalv
Elephanta Caves: ~1300 year old Hindu temple, monumental carvings.
Mumbai scenes: Dhobi Ghat (laundry), Antilia (crazy expensive home), Chinese resto ad, Gateway of India
Cartographic art. (Pilgrimmage paintings; the image substitutes for the journey)
Market, train station, dabbawallahs sorting tiffins.
1.5 mile walk through central Kolkata to Park Street. Nice to get out of the tourist bubble, also nice to re-enter it when done :-)
Jain temple, Kolkata.
Kolkata is fascinating faded grandeur.
More Kolkata: Kalighat pilgrimage temple, Victoria Memorial.
Most interesting today: the Marble Palace, 19th c. European kitsch house of wealthy Indians (babus). Now faded. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marble_Palace_(Kolkata)
Kolkata book shops, intellectuals coffeehouse. Also ancient tram.
Boat tour on the Hooghly (aka the Ganges, in Kolkata.)
Nice dinner at Oh! Calcutta. Bengali food is totally different from what we get in the US; hot sharp mustard! tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g304558-d1189598-Reviews-Oh_Calcutta-Kolkata_Calcutta_West_Bengal.html
Indian Museum in Kolkata has remarkable Buddhist sculpture (Bharhut)
Just realized I'm spending Valentine's Day watching ancient Hindu rituals on the river Ganges. Cremation, incense, offerings, cows. Festive!
Mark Twain on visiting Varanasi: "you will find a small whitewashed building, which is a temple sacred to Sitala, goddess of smallpox."
Most novel experience today so far: watching offerings of yogurt, milk, honey being made to a Shiva lingam in temple at Banares University
Offerings to the Shiva lingam. (Saw this ritual at New Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi, the images stuck with me.)
Scenes from sunrise on the Ganges at Varanasi.
More morning scenes from Varanasi.
At sunset prayer at the Ganges in Varanasi. Feels a bit like Mallory Square in Key West.